ME, NH, and MA

We've put 200 more miles behind us, over 1900 to date, and just 1000 more to reach Port St. Lucie FL! It's good to be back out on the high seas and re-acquire our sea legs. We've moved south of the Gulf of Maine passing though Booth Bay, Kennybunkport and Wells Harbor. We had hoped to stay with the George #41 but he wasn't home (the club rates there ranged from $4 to $6 dollars a foot for the night, not in our budget). Instead we tied up to a fisherman's pier in Wells Harbor (for free) for the night. We heard lots of stories about the Presidential visits to this pier including the frequent boat trips over to Wells Harbor for dinner at a favorite restaurant just up the street. We were probably tied to the same cleats that George uses.

Having arrived at low tide(of course) the water within the break wall was fast and furious with a strong outgoing current. We had an rather “unusual” landing. Upon approach to the pier my co-pilot says: “hey, turn here between these mooring balls”. So I did, and we quickly found out why there were so many so close together. These weren't mooring balls. These were warning buoys for the shallow waters in the center of this basin. We ran aground. It was soft mud or sand and we quickly and easily backed off. No damage done, but we had to back up and try again. As we continued on and completed our graceful approach to the pier, the current took a hold of our stern. Jim had already jumped off with the bow line but had no way of reaching for the stern before we where perpendicular to the dock. It was an easy fix as he simply loosened the line and walked up the dock with some motor assistance from the helm. The best part was the family on the dock that was watching this whole thing unfold. The very young son says to his mother: “Mom, Mom, Come here. A very “unusual” thing is going on over here. Mom, Mom, look at the boat. There's a woman driving the boat!” That made my (Linda) day!

We've now completed the coast of Maine, breezed by New Hampshire and entered into Massachusetts waters. We're sitting in Sandwich Marina at the east end of the Cape Cod Canal. The Canal is a blessing, as it eliminates a trip around Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard keeping us on the inside rather than the ocean side of this area. We're also now south of the Erie latitudes measuring in at 41 degrees, 46min (vs.42.08)!

Just outside this waterway is a protected home for the Right Whales. We didn't see any, but we did spot a dolphin on our way into the marina. We also spotted two Navy Vessels with several crew members on each dressed in camouflage and standing ready next to the deck mounted machine guns. We suspect these exercises are being done in conjunction with the 9/11 events. The fuel attendant claims he's never seen these groups in there before. For a minute there I thought we were being followed. Tonight we may take advantage of a pizza shop that delivers to the boat, or walk into town and spend a few bucks at the ice cream shop, or both. :) Have a great week!

Crossing to Maine

39 days in Canada was enough

USA here we come!

Our first night sail (motor)

Well, Hurricane Irene became a “non-event” in Nova Scotia and we are very thankful for that. After waiting it out and reassembling the boat we finally left Bridgewater and the LaHave River Yacht Club on Tuesday morning just after sunrise. The distance between Canada and USA is just a few hundred miles now. Our goal was to reach Maine before Labor Day weekend. The delay for weather may have made that impossible now. After an uneventful day of motor-sailing we stopped for the night in Lockeport NS. This quiet little harbor sits just east of the Sable Islands and the start of “The Bay of Fundy”. As we've read in our cruising guides and other navigational resources, the Bay of Fundy has very strong currents and can be difficult and/or impossible to cross if your timing is off. It can take anywhere from one long day to as long as a week to find your way over to the northeast shores of Maine. We find ourselves in very unfamiliar circumstances once again. Some local knowledge would really be nice right now.

During the afternoon and evening in Lockeport we met and talked with two other cruising couples. FARING was heading back home to Bath, ME. after having spending several weeks in Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. ISLAND PURSUIT was heading south for the winter, leaving their home in Newfoundland behind. Both captains offered a wealth of knowledge and experience in terms of where to go next and how to get there. Ken and Heather (FARING) were planning a straight through crossing the following day with Bar Harbor as their destination. It was approximately 150 miles, but this would eliminate Fundy as well as several more days in Nova Scotia before crossing over. Jake and Blanche (ISLAND PURSUIT) were still considering a few directions and had their eyes on a similar track. Maybe they would sail due south and head straight for Cape Cod. Both yachts were talking about a trip that would require sailing through the night. We both knew this day was coming, we just didn't know it would be today.

So there it was. A solution to our troubles. An offer for a guide across the Gulf of Maine/Bay of Fundy. We're so excited (fear and panic are often confused with excitement) we can't sleep. We agreed that this was what we needed to do, and accepted the offers for help throughout the night to get us there. On Wednesday the three ships left together at noon. The air was still very cool (COLD) and the winds were light. The plan was to arrive in the vicinity of the Sable Islands just after the tide and current switch to a favorable direction for our course across. We took turns at the helm, and helped one another stand watch. After sunset was when the panic really set in. Not having experienced navigation after dark made it a little scary at first. The on board instruments have back lighting so that was not a problem. But we have no headlights like a car, and the lights from shore as well as the many fishing boats made things a little confusing for a while. Eventually those were all but gone too. The only lights left were those coming from the thousand and thousands of beautiful stars. What a site. FARING made radio contact with each of us every hour to share information and weather updates, and to make sure we (Y-Knot 3) were still OK. Just before sunrise FARING saw a freighter on their radar that appeared to be on a collision course with our tandem of yachts. Ken made contact with the captain to be sure that they see the three of us. The freighter made a slight course adjustment and we were saved. How cool is that?

Having survived the night was an incredible feeling. We each had 3 or 4 hours of sleep (an hour at a time), but it was time to start a new day. We raised the sails, changed to a new heading, and bid our fellow yachtsmen farewell. We were headed for the coast of Maine with hopes of reaching somewhere further south than Bar Harbor. We had a good day and finally tied up in Rockland ME sometime after 7p. 31 hours and 195 miles later, we slept.

We're back in the USA and we're looking forward to the east coast adventures. We did take a short break from the cruising world to spend the Labor Day weekend with our family in DC. We attending our niece Ashlee and Mark's wedding in Alexandria, while also catching up with Mom, Dad, brothers, sisters, aunts and uncles, and few cousins. It was a great side trip and we're so happy that we were able to get there.

We're back on board and ready to start again.  Talk to you again soon.

August 21-29

This past week has been comprised of some long and somewhat boring days. Being anxious to reach Maine, and watching the miles click by so slowly has been rather frustrating. Now we're also watching the progress of the season's first hurricane.

Last Sunday we completed the Northumberland Straight with a nice sunny ride from Wood Island, PEI to the Canso Straight. There's a lock in the straight which allows boat traffic to overcome very strong currents. We were not looking forward to waiting at another lock so we crossed our fingers all afternoon that the passage would be quick. The area between St George Point and the straight was beautiful. We spotted dozens of pilot whales, a few small dolphins and a seal or two. Their graceful movement through the water is definitely something to watch. The Canso Lock – 10 minutes and we were done! What a great ending to a beautiful day. We arrived in Hawkesbury, NS at 5p and enjoyed a quiet night tied to their docks.

We're sailing more now, giving the motor a much deserved rest. The winds are now WSW as we move along the Atlantic shores of Nova Scotia. So far the seas have been low rolling waters with a few gusts over 15 knots each afternoon. We met a couple in Canso that crossed the Atlantic a few years ago. We enjoyed an evening of intense conversation with them and learn a few things about ocean crossings, too. We've been moving cautiously along the coast as we adjust to ocean waters and the need for constant weather reports. We anchoring along the way in Whitehead-Marshall Cove and then Beaver Harbour. We're using information from a cruising guide along with the data in the chartplotter to scope out each day's travel. So far the information has been great and not steered us wrong.

We reach Halifax on Thursday night. The Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron took us in for the night (for a hefty fee of course) and we stayed long enough to do a little laundry in the morning. This club was established in 1837. As we were wandering the grounds and admiring the main facilities we found a trophy case. There were several large sterling silver racing trophies from the early 1900's. Very cool. We were also asked several times if we were lost or needed something. Maybe our casual attire drew the attention? Oh well. We took another ride along the shores of downtown Halifax before departing the area. We were able to tie up at a public dock and walk up and down the boardwalks there. They offer charters of all kinds, car ferry service, and tour boats as well as an abundance of souvenir shops and salt-water taffy vendors. We managed to get out with only $10 having been spent. :)

Next stop was just outside the Halifax area in Ketch Harbour. Saturday morning presented dense fog so there we sat doing small projects until 10a. The fog lifted and we were off. We had an uneventful motor sail to LaHave River. We're holding up in here until the effects of the hurricane have past. We spent all day Sunday preparing the boat for the heavy winds. We took down the dodger and bimini, the jib sail, and added line around the mainsail to keep it secure. After moving the boat out into the river basin with the others, we were brought back to shore where we stayed for the night. The club house was warm and the couches were comfortable.

Today we can start reassembling our sails and canvas. The worst of the storm threats have passed. We heard strong winds and some rain here, but there appears to be no damage anywhere. The forecast today includes strong winds until this evening. We'll be staying here another day and then head back out on Tuesday.

It's hurricane season - Irene headed this way

To all our readers, we're in a safe place.  The southeast shore of Novia Scotia has not been identifed as part of the direct "track" for Hurricane Irene.  We do expect to see strong winds and rain sometime in the next 24-48 hours.  We are staying in Bridgewater,NS tonight and will be monitoring the storm's progress from there. 

Quebec City to Gaspesie Peninsula

Click here to view these pictures larger

The Atlantic Ocean is only 5 miles away!

We've recorded 378 miles in this week's log and 1270 miles to date.  To help put that into perspective for the non-boaters, you need to consider that our top speed with the engine running and relatively calm conditions is about 7 knots per hour.  When we're under sail we can see as much as 8-9 knots/hr before we need to start reducing sail area (winds get too strong) Imagine driving your car anywhere at 8 miles an hour.  How long would you last before you resumed normal speed limits? lol  If we motor from 7a to 5p, we might see 70 miles in a day. Unlike the interstate highways, there are no rest stops and there may or may not be a suitable place to stop for the night when you decide you've had enough boating for the day so we have to plan each day according to the locations of marinas and anchorages.  Add to the equation the tides and currents and the effects of wind direction. We've had a 20 mile day and we've had a 92 mile day.  We've also had 3 days so far with no miles recorded due to poor weather.  Our average as of today is 42 miles/day.  We think that's pretty good.

The air and water temps are higher this week than last, and the sun has been more visible.  Warm air and sunshine, just what we're looking for! 

Ports of call this week included:
Grande Vallee to Anse-a-Beaufils on the Gaspe Peninsula in Quebec; Escuminac, Boctouche, and Tormentine in New Brunswick; Wood Island on Prince Edward Island and finally down into the St George Bay to the Canso Strait and for tonight it's Hawkesbury, Novia Scotia.  That's brings the count of Canadian provinces visited to 5, Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Novia Scotia. 

We watched dozens of pilot whales, a small pod of dolphins and a few seals this afternoon as we passed through the St George Bay area.  What a sight, and so very exciting.  Closest views were about 25 yards away.

We're having a great time.  We're both enjoying the adventure as well as the rare opportunities to rest and relax with a good book.  If you have a question or want to hear more about a particular aspect of our trip, send us an email! 

Reaching for the Northern Latitudes

79º 16 minutes

August 8–14; After a nice rest in Quebec City we were looking forward to Monday morning and another week of adventure.

We were in the marina's lock at 9 o'clock and headed back out into the river. Everything seemed ok as we left. We should have stayed another day. As we motored out of the protection of the harbour and back into the river everything changed. It was windy, cold and raining. Winds were from the NE, 15-20 knots directly on our bow. The current was against us as well, reducing boat speed to almost zero, and it rained off and on all day. We were already out there and committed, so we made the decision to continue on. Our destination was to be a quiet anchorage @ Ile aux Courdes. 50 miles and 11 hours later we arrived and dropped the anchor. This was the pattern all week and we had to remind one another several times a day of the ultimate goal, south. We've now rotated our wardrobes and donned the foul weather gear. Long pants and multiple sweatshirts is the style of the week. Tuesday we were able to reach a tiny marina in Cap-A-L'aigle only completing 20 miles. We confirmed the presence of salt water and the water temp has dropped from the upper 60's to just 48º F. Jim keeps asking people “does the river freeze over in the winter?” We better not still be here to find out. :)

The currents and the tides are two things we have no experience with. We have books on the subject which we have both read. And there are tide tables embedded in our electronic charts. Now what? After two days of what we would consider failed attempts, we changed our interpretation of the data. If we understand it at all, the tides would suggest that we leave Wednesday morning at 4am to have the greatest advantage of that day. So off we go into the dark to conquer the river. We arrived in Tadoussac no worse for the wear @1p. It rained all afternoon and night. I took a nap. In spite of the cold and the damp, it was a better day. We've spotted our first whale and first dolphins! Tadoussac is located at the mouth of the Saguenay River. It's a beautiful, fascinating place. If it wasn't so cold we might have stayed longer. The area is home to many of the endangered beluga whale.

Next stop, anchored in Baie du-Ha-Ha in the Parc National du BIC. It was not a funny haha after listening to the winds all night and holding on tight to the berth so we didn't roll around. We failed to anchor close enough to shore due to the heavy fog and zero visibility, so we were exposed to the river's torment all night long. Needless to say, we were up very early and left there as soon as we could see the bow of the boat through the continued fog. It was off to Rimouski on Friday where we were able to borrow bicycles and pedal to the mall. What a hoot!

After 6 days of rain and strong NE winds, change was finally here. The sun reappeared, the winds calmed to 3-5 kts out of the west, and the water was calm as it ever gets. Saturday we made 70 miles to a nice anchorage in Les Mechins, and Sunday another 75 miles to Grande Vallee, both on the rim of the Gaspesie Peninsule. Tripmeter now at 900 nautical miles. We've spotted a few more Minke whales, dolphins, and even stared down a Grey seal this morning. We have also now passed the northern most point of this voyage (79 degrees 16 minutes) at 2:38p EST Sunday afternoon!! Tomorrow we will official leave the St Lawrence River and begin navigating the Gulf of St. Lawrence. We're also changing time zones this week as we cross into New Brunswick and Atlantic Daylight. It will be an hour later than EST and 4 hours ahead of AZ. Maybe we'll even get some cell phone coverage again. Sorry if we've missed your calls or failed to answer an email timely. We try every day but some places don't have WiFi. We're going to look into an antenna/receiver of some kind as soon as we're back in the States.